Keep in mind that while you don’t need to use a torch to necessarily solder metals together, it can be helpful to know a little about metal work in order to clean and finish metal clay pieces. To get started with metal clay, you need a number of basic supplies and equipment. Some of this depends on the clay you pick, since different types of metal clay heat at different temperatures. Some metal clay will require that you fire it in a kiln because it must be fired up to 1600 F (871 C) in order for the clay to turn into metal. Most kilns, as long as they can reach this temperature, can be used for metal clay, glass fusing, bead annealing, lost wax burn out, and enameling. Though a kiln may be the most expensive piece of equipment you’ll need, it can have many other applications other than metal clay. Kilns can start around $100 and go up to $800 or more. On average, the larger the kiln the larger the price tag. Metal clays that require a lower temperature to fire (such as Art Clay Silver 650 or PMC3) require either a torch or hot pot. For the torch, you will also need ceramic tile to set the metal clay on while you hold the torch over it to fire. For the hot pot, which is kind of like a mini-kiln and costs about $50, you need some kind of fuel like butane to heat the pot. Price ranges vary and are dependant on the type of clay you purchase as well as the amount. An average price for one ounce of silver metal clay is about $30. For a syringe of slip (a thinner version of metal clay used for decorating or repairing), expect to pay around $12 to $15. Roller: In order to roll the clay out, you’ll need a roller. Clear Plastic: You will want to roll your clay on a clean surface. A piece of clear vellum works well. Graph Paper: Slip this under the clear plastic. The lines on the paper help you line up and cut squarely. Emery Board: After pieces are fired, there might be some finishing work needed just as with any metal work. Little filing is required, so an emery board or fine sandpaper may be used. Olive Oil: Clay can be sticky. Olive oil should be applied to hands and your roller to prevent the clay from sticking. Metal Mesh: A small piece of metal mesh is handy for drying clay before it is fired. Vermiculite: If you are making three-dimensional pieces such as beads, after they dry, you’ll want to place them in some vermiculite. Then they can be fired in this, and you won’t get a flat side to your piece. Textured Scraps: Lace, mesh, and other textured material is great for creating textures in the clay. Distilled Water: Occasionally the clay will dry while you are working with it. Dabbing a few drops of water on the clay helps re-hydrate it.
